Lease Β· Rent Β· Buy πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ Home
The car & how long you keep it
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πŸ” Calculation Accountability & Formula Breakdown. Step-by-step audit of your fuel, maintenance, insurance, and state fees.
πŸ” What a trade-in actually is. The lowest gross price of the three, but it takes the tax off your next car and takes one afternoon.
You hand the old car to the dealer you are buying the next one from, and its value comes off the bill instead of arriving as cash. The gross number is the worst of the three routes β€” a dealer has to recondition, warranty and floor the thing β€” but it buys two real advantages. One: the tax. In Georgia and most sales-tax states, a trade at a licensed dealer is deducted from the taxable price of the car you are buying, so a $12,500 trade against 7% TAVT is $875 you never pay β€” and that is subtracted above, which is why a trade can land ahead of an instant offer that looked a few hundred dollars better. A private sale gets you none of it, however high the price. Two: it is one afternoon β€” no listing, no strangers, no title paperwork, and no gap where you own two cars or none. The catches: it only counts if you are buying at the same dealer at the same time, the credit is capped by what your next car costs, and the dealer can quietly fund a generous-looking trade allowance by discounting the new car less. Ask for the trade figure and the out-the-door price as two separate numbers, then compare that total against an instant offer plus the tax you would have paid.
↩️ Why a short hold looks so brutal. Most of a harsh-looking resale is not depreciation β€” it is the round trip of buying at asking and selling below market.
If the resale figure above seems harsh, most of it is not depreciation β€” it is the round trip. You buy at asking, which carries roughly 12% of dealer markup, and you sell below market, and on a twelve-month horizon there is no time for anything else to happen. Both spreads are paid in full whether you keep the car one year or eight, so they are the cost that shrinks fastest per month as the horizon stretches, and the single biggest reason buying loses to a subscription at twelve months and wins at sixty. Two ways to cut it: buy privately or hold longer, and sell privately rather than take the convenience price. Doing both roughly halves the round trip.
πŸ›‘οΈ A new car costs more to insure. Cover is priced off the payout, and on a lease or a loan you are not allowed to reduce it.
Comprehensive and collision are priced off what the insurer would have to pay out, so a car worth $34,000 costs more to cover than the same model worth $12,000 β€” and modern repair costs make it worse, because the radar, cameras and sensors now sitting in bumpers and windscreens turn a parking scrape into a four-figure claim with recalibration on top. The age chips above already move this line for you: brand new sits at the full rate, a three-year-old car about 8% under, and a ten-year-old one roughly a third cheaper. The bigger effect is that on a new car you cannot opt out. A lease or a loan contractually requires full coverage with set deductibles for the whole term, while on an older car you own outright, dropping collision and comprehensive is a decision you are allowed to make β€” which is why the cheap-car row of this page is cheaper twice over. Budget the premium as part of the monthly cost of a new car, not as an afterthought: on a $250 lease-versus-buy difference, a $60 swing in insurance is a quarter of your answer.
Your cash & credit this is what tips the answer
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The six ways to get the keys
Pay cash

Whole price up front. No payment, no interest β€” but the money stops earning, and that forgone return is a real cost, so it is priced in below.

Finance it
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Lease it
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Newcomers: leasing means a new car. With no US credit file the realistic door is an expat programme β€” International AutoSource (IAS) underwrites on your visa, job offer and home-country history, and it writes new cars only. A quoted 2026 VW Tiguan came to $873/mo. That figure is before insurance, so leave the insurance line above filled in β€” unlike a subscription, a lease does not include it, and full comprehensive and collision cover is mandatory for the whole term.

Add the insurance before you compare it to anything. A brand-new car sits at the top of the premium range β€” cover is priced off the payout, and a new Tiguan is a bigger payout than any used car you would otherwise be looking at β€” and a newcomer with no US file is rated worse again in Georgia, which allows credit-based insurance scoring. At the $210/mo full-coverage default that turns $873 into roughly $1,080 a month β€” and the Sixt+ subscription driven the same 12,000 miles a year, one mileage block on top of its $1,000, comes to about $1,065. The two routes are within noise of each other once the comparison is honest, and the lease is not the cheap one it looks like on the payment alone. What separates them is the exit and the commitment, not the money.

The term moves the payment more than anything else. A 12-month lease is the expensive way to buy the same car β€” the drive-off and the steepest year of depreciation are spread over a third as many payments β€” so short terms quote high. Stretching to 36 months usually brings the monthly down; whether IAS in particular does is worth asking them, since the quote above was not run at every length. Move the term field and watch the total, not the payment: a longer lease that costs less per month can still cost more in the end, and it takes away the early exit you were paying the short term for.

Sixt+ subscription
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The one that says yes. Sixt+ does not need a US credit history, which is why it is the realistic door for a newcomer and why it costs what it does. What you are really buying is the exit β€” but read the contract before calling it a 30-day one. A real Sixt+ agreement carries a minimum term, two months on the BMW X1 above, and the month's notice applies after that. Still the shortest commitment on this page by a wide margin, and the only route you can simply stop.

"About $1,000" is five charges, not one. The figures above are a real contract, tax included: $804.56 subscription, $144.35 loss damage waiver, $67.13 second driver, $22.37 extended roadside, $6.00 vehicle licence fee β€” $1,044.41 a month. Two things worth noticing. The second driver is not free, which is what the marketing implies. And the waiver plus the driver come to about $211/mo, near enough exactly what the owning routes on this page pay for insurance β€” so the all-in rate is not the markup it looks like, and the chart now breaks each of those charges into the same component as everywhere else rather than showing one opaque block.

A waiver is not insurance. The LDW covers collision damage, scratches, bumps and theft, but it sits on top of a $1,000 financial responsibility β€” your excess. Kerb a wheel badly and that is a four-figure bill before the waiver does anything, which is why the pessimistic case books one. It is the subscription's version of the repair you would have carried yourself.

Sixt+ quotes the same product two different ways, and it will catch you out. A live contract prints "Price breakdown β€” Tax included". The booking flow for a new car prints "Tax not included". So the X1's $804.56 and the X3's $819.00 are not comparable as printed, and reading them side by side makes the bigger car look $14 dearer when it is nothing of the sort. The one line that appears in both quotes lets you convert: an additional driver is $67.13 with tax in and $59.99 without, which implies about 11.9%. Apply that and the X3 is roughly $1,206/mo against the X1's $1,044 β€” about $160 a month more, not fourteen. The tax field above is set to zero on the tax-inclusive chip and 11.9% on the other so the bars compare properly.

Even so, the prices barely track the cars. A RAV4 β€” much the cheapest of the three by anything a buyer measures β€” costs more than the X1. Subscription rates follow fleet economics: what they are holding, what is in demand at that branch, what they expect to get for it. Price the specific model, never the class, and always ask what the size up costs.

The minimum term is a lever, not a fact, and so is the joining fee. The X1 contract ran a two-month minimum with a $500 start fee; the X3 quote is one month with a $199 enrollment fee. The protection product differs too β€” an LDW at $144.35 on one, "Smart Protection" at $198.99 on the other. Quote both terms, and read the line items rather than the total.

⚑ Fleet Powertrain Disclaimer: Sixt+ US fleet is predominantly ICE (Petrol) German luxury & premium models (BMW X1/X3, Audi Q5). Sixt+ does not offer Electric (EV) or Hybrid inventory in most US markets. If you are looking for EV or Hybrid subscription options, Flexcar provides dedicated EV & Hybrid tiers across all mileage plans.

Read the mileage cap before the rate. The $1,000 BMW X1 came with 500 miles a month β€” 6,000 a year, well under half what an average US driver covers. A 30-mile round-trip commute alone spends 600. Extra miles are sold as whole 1,000-mile blocks rather than billed per mile afterwards, so an average US 12,000 mi/yr on that plan is one block on top: about $1,065 a month, and you pay for the whole block whether you use 60 miles of it or 960. That cap, not the headline rate, is what decides the real number.

Flexcar subscription
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Cheaper than Sixt+, and quoted differently enough to catch you out. Real listings run $749–754/mo β€” a brand new Corolla at $454 + $295, a 2023 Kona Electric at $454 + $295, a Ford Escape at $459 + $295. But every one of those is plus tax, where the Sixt+ contract is quoted with tax already in it. Compare the two headline numbers directly and you will flatter Flexcar by whatever your local rate is. A checkout that itemises it settles the rate: $40.14 of tax on $669 of charges is exactly 6.0%, which is what the field above is set to β€” change it for your own county and both bars move together.

A protection plan is mandatory, and your own policy will not do. Flexcar states plainly that existing personal auto insurance and credit-card cover do not extend to a Flexcar, because it is a long-term ownership replacement rather than a rental. Basic liability is included at state minimum, and on top of that you must take either Essential at $245/mo with a $2,000 deductible or Enhanced at $295/mo with a $500 deductible and glass covered. Same shape as the Sixt+ waiver, and the same trap: the headline is not the cover. Between the two tiers you are paying $50/mo for $1,500 less deductible and glass cover, so Enhanced only pays for itself if you expect to claim inside about two and a half years.

Annual membership and taxes are required; delivery is only for out-of-state cars. Membership is $249/yr, required, covering servicing, tyres, brakes, roadside and 20Β’/gal off at Sunoco β€” free for the first two weeks and waived entirely if you return the car inside them. Local vehicles carry a $0 delivery fee; you only pay delivery if you select a car shipped from out of state (which can range from $199 to $874). Filter by what is already local so your only additions to the advertised vehicle rate are mandatory protection, annual membership, and local taxes.

OnTrack is a real discount, it is automatic, and it is bigger than it looks. Pay on time and drive safely for six months and the rate drops, and it follows you even if you swap cars. A Tucson checkout goes from $709.14 to $654.00 a month β€” but that $55 is the taxed figure. Work back through the 6% and the cut on the car line itself is $52.02, about 12%. Over a two-year hold it is worth around $1,000. It is modelled above, so any horizon past six months picks it up.

The mileage tier is priced, not fixed. That Tucson is on the Standard plan at 850 mi/mo. Cruiser is 1,200, Road Warrior 2,000, and Low Gear bills variably in 200-mile increments β€” each at its own price, so the tier is part of the quote rather than a setting. 850 a month is 10,200 a year, under the US average, so check your own mileage against the plan before comparing rates. The chips above carry each listing's own allowance.

Which one you can get is still a credit question. Flexcar checks credit at signup and a third-party read puts the practical floor around 650 β€” Flexcar itself publishes no minimum. Below it, and a brand-new US file counts as below it, this route is shut and Sixt+ is the only door open. That is why the two are separate lines here: not interchangeable, and the choice is made before any of the arithmetic.

Flexcar's own site runs a "cost comparison" against buying the same car that puts insurance and protection at $656/mo for the buyer. Treat that as marketing β€” this page has the owning routes near $210. Their own numbers are worth having; their arithmetic about your alternative is not.

Daily rental
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Nobody plans to do this for years, which is the point. This line prices committing to nothing at all, and it is the ceiling every other route is measured against β€” the reason a subscription that looked expensive stops looking expensive. It is worth knowing exactly, though, because it is genuinely the right answer for a few weeks, and because it is the fallback if every other door is shut.

Mileage is usually unlimited and the rate carries insurance, servicing and registration the way a subscription does, so those lines read $0 here too. Watch two things a counter quote hides: the collision damage waiver is often extra at $15–30 a day unless your card covers it, and weekly and monthly rates are far below the daily one β€” the $130/day above is a five-day booking, and a month-long hire would be negotiated well under it.

🚘 How Turo (Peer-to-Peer) compares: Turo lets private hosts rent out personal cars. While daily rates look cheap ($35–$65/day), Turo charges a 10–25% Trip Fee plus protection ($15–$25/day) and state tax. On 30-day hires, hosts offer 25–40% monthly discounts (bringing all-in monthly costs to ~$1,200–$1,500/mo). Turo is great for 1–30 days, but for 6–12+ months, dedicated subscriptions (Flexcar) or traditional leases win by $300–$600/mo without host cancellation risks or strict 200 mi/day caps.

Cheapest over your horizon β€”

True cost per month

One bar per route. Length is what it costs you every month, all in β€” longer is dearer β€” and the blocks are where that money goes.

πŸš— These are probably not the same car. Cash and finance price the car you described above. Everything else is a quote for whatever vehicle that provider is offering β€” the $1,000 Sixt+ rate is a BMW X1, the IAS quote is a new Tiguan, the rental is whatever is on the lot β€” and the page has no way to make any of them a nine-year-old Civic. So read this as six ways to have a car for the next 60 months, which is the real choice in front of you, and not as six prices for one car. Each bar says which vehicle it is pricing.
Break-even: how long you keep it
What your mileage costs you
How to decide Four gates come before the money β€” a licence, a horizon, a credit file, a bank balance β€” and each can rule out routes the next would have ranked. Your own answers are lit.
How to read this What the winning number does and does not mean, in four notes that move with your inputs.
Pros & cons, side by side Cash buys certainty and gives up the return; a loan is free money below the break-even APR; a lease caps repair risk and owns nothing; a subscription buys the 30-day exit and charges for it.
πŸ’΅ Pay cash
  • No payment, no interest, no lender. The title is yours on day one.
  • Cheapest way to own once the car is a few years old and you keep it.
  • You can drop collision coverage on an older car and self-insure.
  • The money stops earning. At 4% that is real, and it is the line most people forget.
  • Liquidity gone. A $30k car should not empty a $32k emergency fund.
  • You eat 100% of the depreciation and every repair after the warranty.
  • Cash buys you no leverage at the dealer β€” it can cost you the promo APR.

Best when you keep cars a long time, the APR on offer is above what your cash earns, and buying still leaves you a cash cushion.

🏦 Finance it
  • Your cash keeps working. Below the break-even APR above, borrowing is strictly cheaper.
  • Promo APRs on new cars (0–2.9%) are often below any safe return β€” free money.
  • You own it at the end, and the payment eventually stops.
  • On-time payments build credit.
  • Used-car APRs are far higher than new β€” 8–12% is common, which reverses the maths.
  • Little down means underwater for a year or two; you need gap coverage.
  • Full coverage is mandatory while there is a lien.
  • Long terms (72–84 mo) hide a too-expensive car behind a small payment.

Best when you qualify for a subsidised rate, or your cash earns more than the loan costs. Keep the term at 60 months or less.

πŸ“„ Lease it
  • Lowest monthly payment for a given car, and little cash down.
  • Always under warranty β€” no surprise repair bills.
  • Residual risk is the bank's. If the car tanks in value, you hand back the keys.
  • Occasionally subsidised into being the cheapest option outright, especially on EVs.
  • You own nothing at the end. Every payment is rent on the depreciation.
  • Mileage is metered β€” $0.15–$0.30 for every mile past the cap.
  • Wear-and-tear charges at turn-in are judged by the bank, not you.
  • Getting out early is expensive; you are committed for the full term.

Best when you replace cars every 2–3 years anyway, drive under the cap, and want a fixed, predictable cost with no repair risk.

πŸ—“οΈ Rent monthly (Sixt+ & co.)
  • One number covers everything β€” insurance, maintenance, registration, roadside.
  • Cancel with 30 days' notice. No other option lets you leave.
  • No credit application drama, no down payment, no depreciation exposure.
  • Swap car classes as your needs change; second driver usually included.
  • Works for the Georgia road test β€” you are the named driver and the insurance is in the rate.
  • By far the most expensive per month β€” you are paying for the option to quit.
  • Mileage caps are tighter than a lease, and overage runs higher.
  • You build no equity and the rate can be re-priced at renewal.
  • Fleet cars, limited choice of trim and colour.

Best when your horizon is genuinely uncertain β€” new city, new job, visa, a house move β€” or you need a car for under a year.

Cheap car or expensive car? tap a preset above to model one Four bands, from a $3–8k beater to a $50k+ premium car. The cheaper it is, the less value it can lose and the more of your cost arrives as unpredictable repair bills.

Depreciation and repair risk trade against each other. The cheaper the car, the less value it can lose β€” and the more of your cost arrives as unpredictable repair bills. Pick the risk you can absorb.

πŸ”§ The beater

$3k–$8k Β· cash only Risk

A 12-year-old Camry or Civic has almost nothing left to lose β€” maybe $600/yr of depreciation. Drop collision and comprehensive and insurance falls to liability-only. The catch is variance: a transmission is $3–5k, and it does not wait for payday. Budget $150–250/mo into a repair fund and treat any month you do not spend it as a win. You need a mechanic you trust and a pre-purchase inspection ($150) β€” that inspection is the single highest-return $150 in this whole page. Worst case is a car you scrap for $800, which is a bounded loss most people can take.

πŸ‘ The sweet spot

$15k–$25k Β· 3–5 years old Risk

Someone else paid for the first-year cliff β€” the steepest 20% β€” and you get a car with most of its life ahead. Certified pre-owned adds a manufacturer-backed warranty for roughly a $1–2k premium, which is fair value if it covers the powertrain. The trade-off is financing: used-car APRs run 3–5 points above new-car promos, so if you are borrowing, run the numbers before assuming used is cheaper. Check whether the model is on its second or third year of a generation β€” the early build years of a new platform carry the recalls.

✨ New, mainstream

$28k–$40k Risk

You pay about $6k for the first year and get near-zero repair risk, full warranty, current safety tech and the pick of financing. If a captive lender is offering 0.9–2.9%, the cheap money can genuinely offset the depreciation gap against a used car β€” that is the one case where new beats used on total cost. What you also buy is the highest insurance premium of any row here, and no right to reduce it: the payout is at its largest, the safety tech that makes the car safer is expensive to repair and recalibrate, and a lease or loan holds you to full comprehensive and collision until it ends. Keeping it ten years is what makes new cars rational; trading out at three is what makes them expensive.

πŸ’Ž Premium & EV

$50k+ Risk

Depreciation is brutal and front-loaded β€” 50% in three years is normal for a German saloon, and EV values move with battery tech and the next price cut. Out of warranty, repairs are priced like the badge: $2k for an air-suspension strut is routine. This is the one segment where leasing is often the rational choice: you are renting the depreciation you cannot predict, and the manufacturer is frequently subsidising the residual. Buying makes sense mainly second-hand at the four-year mark, with an extended warranty and eyes open.

Where you buy it: CarMax vs. dealership vs. private CarMax charges roughly 1% over market for a fixed price and a return window. A franchise dealer is the only route to promo APRs and the trade-in tax credit. Private is cheapest and sold as-is.
🏬 CarMax & no-haggle
  • Fixed price. No four-hour negotiation, no F&I office grinding you down.
  • Return window (a few days) and a short limited warranty β€” rare on used cars.
  • Huge searchable inventory, transferable between stores for a fee.
  • Their written appraisal is good for days and costs nothing β€” use it as the floor price for your trade even if you buy elsewhere.
  • You pay for the convenience β€” an iSeeCars study put CarMax about 1% above market value, and no-haggle lots generally run 5–10% above a private-party price.
  • Fixed price cuts both ways β€” no discount for cash, timing, or walking away.
  • In-house financing is rarely the best rate. Bring your own.

Worth the premium if you hate negotiating or cannot judge a used car. Get an independent inspection anyway.

🏁 Franchise dealership
  • The only place to get manufacturer promo APRs, rebates and factory CPO warranties.
  • Price is negotiable β€” end of month, end of quarter and slow-moving stock all move it.
  • Trade-in reduces the taxable price in most states, a real saving CarMax also offers but a private sale does not.
  • Doc fees, dealer add-ons and back-end products are where the profit hides.
  • Outcome depends on your willingness to walk out. Two buyers pay different prices for the same car.
  • The monthly-payment conversation is a trap β€” negotiate the out-the-door number only.

Best for new cars, subsidised financing and leases. Email several dealers for out-the-door quotes and let them compete in writing.

🀝 Private party
  • The cheapest way to buy the same car β€” no overhead, no reconditioning markup.
  • You meet the owner, see the service records and how it was kept.
  • Sold as-is. No warranty, no return, no recourse.
  • No trade-in tax credit, and you arrange your own financing and title work.
  • Scam and title-washing risk; you handle payment safely and verify the lien yourself.

Best for cheap cars where a dealer's markup is a large share of the price. Always a pre-purchase inspection and a title check.

New to the US? Credit gates most of this An empty US file is not a bad one, but lenders read it that way, and every route except cash needs someone to say yes first. What still works: expat programmes, credit-union newcomer loans, ITIN lenders.

Every route above except one needs a lender, an underwriter or a platform to say yes first, and they all read a US credit file you do not have yet. Arriving with a clean record from another country counts for nothing β€” the file is empty, not good.

🚫 What is shut or repriced
  • Financing. Mainstream banks decline a thin file outright. Where you are approved, expect a large down payment and a rate in the 10–15% region rather than the 6.39% average.
  • Leasing. Captive lenders normally want a score in the 660s or better. Without one you are usually declined, whatever your income. The expat route around it β€” International AutoSource β€” writes new cars only, so "lease something cheap and used" is not on the menu: a quoted 2026 Tiguan was $873/mo before insurance.
  • Subscriptions. Flexcar is the cheaper one, but its soft pull effectively gates at about a 650 score and sets your deposit ($0–500) too. Below that you are down to Sixt+ β€” around $1,000/mo, insurance in, 500 miles included β€” and a deposit scaled to the vehicle group.
  • Insurance. Most states let insurers rate on a credit-based insurance score, so the same driver pays more with no history. California, Hawaii, Massachusetts and Michigan ban the practice β€” Georgia does not.
βœ… What actually works
  • Cash. Nobody can decline it. This is why having the money matters more here than the return it gives up β€” with no file, the "borrow at 6% and keep your cash invested" argument simply is not on the menu.
  • Manufacturer new-to-country programmes. Several captives underwrite on your visa, employment letter and home-country credit instead of a US score. Ask the brand's finance arm directly, not the salesperson.
  • Expat finance specialists. International AutoSource is the one most newcomers land on, and it underwrites on visa, employment and home-country history. New cars only, and the payment excludes insurance. Credit-union newcomer loans work the same way, pricing on income and residency rather than history.
  • ITIN lenders. You do not need a Social Security number to be approved β€” some captives accept an ITIN under standard criteria.
  • Turo, once you hold a licence. A peer-to-peer marketplace rather than a credit product. On a foreign licence the minimum age is 21 and you bring a passport plus an English licence or an international permit; the deposit runs $200–750 and drivers under 25 pay a young-driver fee.
πŸ“„ What to have ready: passport and visa, SSN or ITIN, proof of address, three months of bank statements and two or three pay stubs. That package is what turns "no history" into an approval at the places that do underwrite newcomers.
πŸ“ˆ Build the file while you drive. A secured credit card and an auto loan that reports on time will give you a usable score in six to twelve months β€” at which point refinancing the loan is the single cheapest thing you can do. Buy the car with cash now if you can; borrow later, once the rate is worth having.
Getting a licence in Georgia the bit nobody warns you about Thirty days from becoming a resident. Check reciprocity first β€” it may be a straight swap. If not, the road test needs a licensed passenger and an insured car you bring yourself.

Georgia gives you 30 days from becoming a resident to hold a Georgia licence. A non-citizen establishing residency is on the same clock.

1 Β· Check reciprocity first

Georgia recognises licences from countries that hold a reciprocal agreement with the Department of Driver Services, provided yours is equivalent to a Class C. If your country is on that list you may be able to exchange without testing. If it is not, you take all three tests β€” knowledge, vision and road β€” like a first-time driver, no matter how many years you have been driving at home. Check the DDS list before you plan anything else.

2 Β· Learner's permit & the written test

The knowledge test covers road rules and signs, taken from the state driver's manual, alongside a vision test. Passing gets you a Class CP instructional permit β€” which only lets you drive with someone 21 or older, licensed for the same class, sitting in the passenger seat and capable of taking control. So the permit does not, on its own, get you mobile.

3 Β· The road test β€” and the catch

Hassle

Here is the rule that catches every newcomer: you must turn up with a licensed driver aged 21 or over, and with a car β€” registered, insured, four-wheeled, and with the paper registration and insurance card in it. Only you and that driver may be in the vehicle: no other passengers, no children, no pets. If the car was bought in the last 30 days or wears temporary tags, bring the bill of sale.

Which is circular: you need a car and a licensed friend to get the licence that lets you have a car. Daily rental counters generally refuse β€” most will not rent to an unlicensed driver in the first place, and their terms bar road tests outright.

A monthly subscription is the way through it. A Sixt+ car passed at the Georgia road test β€” you are the named driver on the agreement, the insurance is bought through the subscription, and the registration and insurance card travel in the car, which is exactly the paperwork the examiner asks to see. Your licensed 21-plus accompanier rides along as normal. Bring the agreement with your name on it alongside the registration and insurance card.

Failing that, pay for it: driving schools rent you a car with an instructor who rides along as your licensed accompanier, typically $200–400 for the appointment. If you know someone with a car and an afternoon free, that is the same service for the price of lunch.

⚠️ Rules are state law, and they differ sharply β€” New York will not exchange a foreign licence at all, other states waive the road test for many countries. This section is Georgia; if you move, check that state's DMV rather than assuming any of it carries over.
Reading a listing price Three different numbers get called "the price". Market value is what the car is worth, asking price adds about 12%, and out-the-door adds tax, title and doc fees on top of that.
πŸ” Three different numbers get called "the price", and browsing a forecourt only ever shows you the highest one. Market value is what the car is worth β€” that is what this page computes. Asking price adds roughly 12% for reconditioning, warranty and overhead, and a no-haggle retailer like CarMax sits at the top of that band by design. What you would be paid for the same car is 12–27% below market depending on who buys it. A valuation that looks low against the listings you have been reading is usually all three of those working as intended.
⚠️ A price well under market is information, not a bargain. On a car that should be $22,000, a $17,000 asking price is the seller telling you something β€” a check-engine light, an accident on the report, a branded or salvage title, well above average mileage, or a service history nobody can produce. Occasionally it is a genuine motivated seller. Either way the answer is the same $150 pre-purchase inspection, and on a lit dashboard, a scan before you go: an evaporative-emissions sensor is a cheap afternoon, a catalytic converter or a transmission fault is several thousand and wipes out the whole discount.
US fine print worth knowing Georgia charges a one-time 7% title tax instead of sales tax, at half rate for new residents. Plus gap cover, lease disposition fees, and the paperwork that only appears at signing.
  • Georgia does not charge sales tax on cars at all. It charges a one-time Title Ad Valorem Tax of 7% instead, paid when the vehicle is titled, which replaced both sales tax and the old annual ad valorem bill. Three consequences worth money: a new resident titling a car they already own pays 3%, not 7%, so bringing a car with you is taxed at half rate; a private-party purchase is taxed on the state's own fair-market-value manual, not your bill of sale, so haggling a cheap price does not cut the tax; and the trade-in deduction only applies at a licensed dealer, never on a private sale. Outside Georgia, ordinary sales tax applies β€” on the full price when buying, and in most states only on each monthly payment when leasing, though Texas and Illinois tax the whole vehicle up front even on a lease. Enter your lease payment tax-inclusive either way.
  • Cash gets you no discount at the dealer. Dealers earn on financing, so paying cash can cost you the promotional APR and any finance rebate. Negotiate the out-the-door price first, reveal how you are paying last, then check whether a 0.9–2.9% promo loan beats your cash return.
  • Leases are mileage-metered. Go over the allowance and you pay $0.15–$0.30 per mile at turn-in, plus wear-and-tear charges for anything past "normal". High-mileage drivers rarely win on a lease.
  • You cannot walk out of a lease cheaply. Early termination bills the remaining payments; a transfer (Swapalease and friends) is the usual escape hatch, and some captives ban it. A month-to-month subscription is the option you can actually cancel.
  • Gap coverage. With little or no money down, a loan can be underwater for the first year or two β€” gap insurance covers the difference if the car is totalled. Leases usually include it.
  • Insurance is not equal, and a new car is the expensive end of it. Cover is priced off the payout, so the newer and pricier the car the higher the premium β€” and sensor-laden bumpers and windscreens have pushed repair costs up faster than the cars themselves. Leases and loans then require comprehensive and collision with set deductibles for the whole term, so the one lever that would cut the bill is contractually closed to you; on an owned older car you can drop that coverage and self-insure. Subscriptions include insurance in the rate, which is a real part of why a $1,000/mo subscription is not as far above a $873 lease as it looks β€” get a quote on the actual VIN before you sign either, because a lease payment and a subscription rate are not comparable numbers until you have added it.
  • Business use. If the car runs through a business, lease payments and depreciation deduct differently (Section 179 / bonus depreciation vs. the lease inclusion amount). That can flip the ranking, and it is a question for a CPA, not a calculator.
Where these numbers come from iSeeCars 2026 for depreciation, Experian Q1 2026 for APRs, AAA and Edmunds for running costs, and 38 real CarMax listings the value model was fitted against.

Every default below is a published US figure, not a guess. They are national averages β€” your state, credit score and driving record will move them, so overwrite anything you know better.

  • Depreciation β€” five-year retention per model from the iSeeCars 2026 study: RAV4 75%, CR-V 71%, CX-5 58%, X3 ~50%, Equinox 49%, Escape 46%, against an all-vehicle average of 58%. The generic slow/average/fast curves are calibrated to the same scale.
  • APR β€” Experian's State of the Automotive Finance Market, Q1 2026: 6.39% average on new, 11.43% on used.
  • Lease payment β€” the $500 default is what standard lease maths gives for a $32k car at a 60% residual over 36 months. Experian puts the national average new-car lease payment at $619/mo, on a much pricier average car.
  • Insurance β€” ~$210/mo for full coverage, the middle of 2026 national estimates (sources range $186–$244). That figure is the new-car anchor, and the age chips scale it down from there β€” Γ—0.92 at three years, Γ—0.80 at five to seven, Γ—0.62 at ten-plus β€” because comprehensive and collision are priced off the payout, which falls with the car's value. Marque moves it too: German luxury runs Γ—1.35, American Γ—1.05. So the same driver insuring a new German saloon and a ten-year-old Honda is looking at roughly $285 against $130 a month, on identical liability limits.
  • Maintenance and repairs β€” ten-year brand totals from YourMechanic: Toyota $5,445, Honda $5,835, Chevrolet $6,275, Ford $6,350, Mazda $6,420, against $14,000–19,000 for German luxury. Those totals are spread across the years you own the car using the published pattern that repair spend runs near half the lifetime average under warranty and reaches 2.6x past fifteen years, then scaled to your mileage. A brand-new car therefore lands around $20–25/mo rather than the $110/mo lifetime average, which is what AAA's 11.04 cents per mile describes. The four bands and the mileage scaling are modelled; the totals and the warranty terms are published.
  • Body style β€” the marque prices are fleet averages describing a compact crossover, so the shape you pick scales them: a small car Γ—0.74, a saloon Γ—0.88, a compact SUV Γ—1.00, a three-row SUV Γ—1.30, a pickup Γ—1.28. Those are the ratios between real 2026 base prices inside a single brand's own range β€” a Corolla against a RAV4 against a Highlander is the same spread as a Civic against a CR-V against a Pilot. Size carries into upkeep (Γ—0.90 to Γ—1.20, for tires, brakes and fluid volumes) and into cover (Γ—0.95 to Γ—1.10, since a heavier vehicle does more damage and pickups are stolen more), both smaller effects than the price gap. Picking a named model overrides all of it β€” those are real cars with real prices, and every one in the set is a compact SUV.
  • Warranties β€” 3yr/36k basic and 5yr/60k powertrain is the industry standard (Toyota, Honda, Ford, Chevrolet); BMW runs 4yr/50k; Hyundai and Kia lead with 5yr/60k basic and 10yr/100k powertrain.
  • Mileage beats model year on a used car. Holding mileage constant, a model year is worth only about $240 across these 2019–2022 listings, while 10,000 miles is worth around $670 β€” so an older car with fewer miles generally beats a newer one with more. The two are partly collinear in a sample this narrow, so treat it as a direction rather than a coefficient.
  • Asking prices are quantised. All 38 listings end in $998, so what you see is a price point rather than a valuation, with up to a few hundred dollars of rounding in it. Nothing in the set was listed below $21,998 whatever its age or mileage, which looks like a retailer floor for the model.
  • Mileage against resale β€” the quoted rule of thumb is 5–10% per 10,000 miles, but real asking prices are gentler: across CR-V listings the slope is about $123 per 1,000 miles on an EX and only $57 on an EX-L, so 2–5% per 10,000. Higher-mileage cars in any sample are also older, so the mileage-only share sits at the bottom of that. The page uses 4.5% per 10,000 miles away from a 12,000 mi/yr norm, with age priced separately.
  • Trim prices β€” published 2019 MSRPs for each ladder, plus destination: CR-V LX $24,350 / EX-L $29,750 / Touring $32,750; RAV4 LE $25,500 / XLE Premium $29,500 / Limited $33,500; CX-5 Sport $25,325 / Grand Touring $31,090 / Signature $36,890; Equinox L $24,995 / LT $28,295 / Premier $32,195; Escape S $25,200 / SEL ~$29,000 / Titanium $35,215; X3 sDrive30i $41,000 / xDrive30i $43,000 / M40i $54,650. Other model years are scaled from 2019 at 3.2% a year, which is an approximation.
  • Selling it on β€” the curves give market value, so every route out is below it: a private sale about 12% under, an instant offer from CarMax or Carvana about 26%, a dealer trade-in about 27%. Those come from the published spreads β€” instant offers 14–18% under private money, trade-ins 15–20% β€” rebased onto market value rather than onto each other. Two bases, and it matters: 26% under market is only about 16% under private money, because private money is already 12% under market. The note beside the field quotes both, so a figure there is never as punitive as the market-value number alone reads.
  • What widens a dealer's haircut β€” miles, not birthdays. Past 60,000 the spread grows 1.2 points per 10,000 miles, with a small 0.4-point-a-year age term after year five for what age alone costs a car, capped at 40% under market. A seven-year-old car with 45,000 miles is a retail unit and keeps close to the standard haircut; the same car at 130,000 is auction material. A private sale does not widen at all β€” a private buyer pays a mileage-adjusted market price, and that adjustment is already in the value at 4.5% per 10,000 excess miles, so widening it again would charge you twice for the same odometer. The odometer at sale is the previous owner's assumed 12,000 a year plus your own driving, so a genuinely low-mileage used car reads higher here than it is β€” put the real number in through the model comparison, which takes an odometer directly.
  • Checked against the market. The curves flatten after year five rather than decaying at a fixed rate, because real ones do. Predicted asking prices were then tested against eight CarMax CR-V listings spanning 2019–2024, 19,000–91,000 miles and five trims: mean error βˆ’1.9%, worst case 6.7%. That check is what set the mileage rate, added the EX-class rung to each ladder β€” pricing an EX as an EX-L had been overstating it β€” and gave hybrids their own premium and retention bonus.
  • Subscription rates β€” real quotes: Sixt+ at $1,000/mo for a 2026 BMW X1 including insurance and two drivers but only 500 miles a month, about $1,200 for the next size up. Flexcar prices below that but wants roughly a 650 score, so the Sixt+ number is the one that applies with no US file. The road-test acceptance is first-hand: a Sixt+ car was taken to the Georgia test and accepted, with the subscriber as the named driver and the insurance bought through the subscription.
  • Lease quote β€” International AutoSource, the expat programme, on a 2026 VW Tiguan: $873/mo, insurance not included, and new cars only. Short terms quote highest; whether a longer term brings the monthly down at IAS specifically has not been verified, so treat the term field as something to ask about rather than a modelled result.
  • Credit tiers β€” Experian Q1 2026 average APRs by band: 4.66% super prime (781+), 6.27% prime (661–780), 9.57% near prime (601–660), 16.01% for poor credit on new cars; 7.70% to 21.77% across the same range on used. The no-US-file row is an estimate, because what you are quoted depends entirely on which newcomer programme you can reach.
  • Georgia TAVT and licensing β€” Georgia Department of Revenue (7% of fair market value, 3% for new residents) and the Department of Driver Services (30-day residency clock, reciprocity list, and the accompanying-driver rule for the road test). The $200–400 for a road-test car and instructor is a market rate, not a published fee.
  • Everything else β€” sales tax, fees, registration, lease terms and subscription mileage caps are typical values you should replace with your own quote. Fuel is excluded throughout because it is the same car either way.